The rapids are more numerous, and long deep reaches far less seldom met with. The native population in the higher parts of this river is small in number.

On the sixth day's voyage we left the Rangitikei, and ascended the Moawhanga for half a day's journey, passing through the narrow cañon already described. Our canoe voyage then terminated. We ascended the cliff, and walked to a pa called Pawerawera. Here we found no one at home, but made ourselves comfortable for the night, and on the following day proceeded to Papatahi, where we only found two men and some women and children. The inhabitants of the district had gone to Taupo to celebrate the obsequies of Te Herekiekie. From this point Ruahine appeared about fifteen miles distant to the eastward, with the tertiaries lying on its flank at about the same height at which we stood. I had wished to explore into one of its gorges, but found that my supplies would be insufficient. I was informed, however, that two days' poling in the Rangitikei, above the junction of the Moawhanga, will bring the traveller to the pa Te Awarua, and that probably from that pa as a base the Ruahine might be most easily explored; although a traverse from the Napier country would probably prove the easier operation.

Towards the east, in the direction of Napier, I observed tertiary hills capped with a scarped stratum, evidently limestone. From Papatahi, Ruahine was in sight, bearing N. 55° W., by compass.

We procured a guide and a baggage horse, and started for Taupo. Our route lay through an open and well grassed country; but on both sides there was a large extent of forest in sight. We crossed the Moawhanga by a bridge over a vertical chasm, and slept at Pukehiwi. Leaving the valley of the Moawhanga, we traversed that of the Hautapu, the country improving in pastoral qualities. At Turangerere, on the Hautapu, here is a fine waterfall, and a pa of importance, celebrated for an enormous Waatu or store, built by the late chief Te Herekiekie, and called from its size Niu Tirani. We were still travelling over tertiaries, and at the Moawhanga bridge, at Turangarere, found “Venus,” and other marine shells.

Encamped for the night at a pretty place called Poutamurengi, we bade farewell next day to the valley of the Hautapu, and crossing the Waitangi, passed from marine tertiary rocks to the volcanic products of Ruapehu. The ascent, although no very perceptible, was now rapid. We entered the valley of the Wangæhu, and gradually ascended it to its source. During this day I had observed the range of Kaimanawa, as we passed its southern end, rising out of the tertiaries. At a glance I saw it was a range of old slate rocks. On the rest of our way to Taupo it was on our right, a few miles distant. It is a powerful range, rising to an elevation of over 5000 feet. It is not a continuation of Ruahine, but lies to the westward of the line of that range, and is the highest part in structure of the North Island. Ruapehu was now on our left. On its eastern flank lies a small glacier, or a nevé. Our guide, Tuakau, pointed out to us the marks of the avalanche which fell from this, and ultimately destroyed the bridge of the Wangæhu. The avalanche, after descending the mountain, was carried by its impetus for some miles across the plain, into the bed of the Wangæhu. The left bank of that river, being the highest, stopped the further progress of the avalanche, which consequently formed a dam. The river ran dry below, and formed a lake above, until the accumulated waters carried the debacle before them to the sea, sweeping away the Wangæhu bridge, some forty or fifty miles below.

We could perceive distinctly the marks of the progress of the avalanche across the plain. The ground had been bared, and large patches of bushes swept away.

As all the rivers from the Whanganui to the Rangitikei, both inclusive,

flow in chasms, which may be blocked up at any time by an avalanche, by a fall of the cliffs, caused by an earthquake (as happened in the Rangitikei in the year 1855), or by other causes; an accumulation of water may be collected in the bed of any of these rivers, which, when it bursts, would be dangerous to any bridge not constructed with a clear waterway.^*

Abreast of Ruapehu we passed the stone on one side of which the Wangæhu rises, flowing with bitter sulphureous water to the south. On the other side the Waikato flows clear and bright towards Lake Taupo, but before proceeding far it receives affluents whose waters resemble those of the Wangæhu. The watershed of these rivers is the highest point on the road. As we descended, vegetation improved in luxuriance, although all along the bases of Ruapehu and Tongariro, the plants are alpine in character. Kahikatea and black birch, full grown, but only a few feet in height, are common. The mountain torrents are frequent and very beautiful, but their height and rapidity during winter, and the depth of snow which is said to lie upon these plains, may prove a great obstacle to a permanent road through this high country, which shall be open throughout the year. We encamped on the banks of one of these torrents called Waihohonu, I think the prettiest of them all.

On the following day we reached Roto Aira, a lake of considerable size, lying under the northern slope of Tongariro, between it and Pihanga, an old volcanic cone. At Roto Aira we found a considerable village. The inhabitants were very civil, and after cooking food, supplied us with horses to ride to Tokanu, a village situated on the delta of the Waikato, here called the Tongariro, at the south end of Lake Taupo, which we reached in the evening. The river flowing from Roto Aira falls into the same delta.

The group of volcanic mountains which we had just passed, is of magnificent proportions, and if easily accessible, would attract many visitors. Ruapehu is undoubtedly the most ancient cone, and is also the most elevated land in the North Island, attaining a height of upwards of 9000 feet. Doubtless its volcanic forces have long been extinct. It appeared to me to be composed of the harder volcanic products.

Tongariro lies to the north of Ruapehu, and is a mountain of great size, but very inferior in elevation to Ruapehu. No visible signs of volcanic action now appear from the interior of its crater, but the grand active cone of eruption, called Ngauruhoe, 6200 feet high, is a lateral cone of this mountain, rising on its southern slope.^†

My impression of Tongariro is, that when at its full elevation it must have been a volcanic cone of very great magnitude, considerably exceeding Ruapehu in height, but that the cone has fallen in, and the mountain is in consequence truncated.

Ngauruhoe is a regular cone of very graceful form, and reaches a height of over 6000 feet. According to the natives, its last grand eruption occurred about twenty-five years ago, when it threw out large quantities of stones; its top, they say, then fell in, and spoilt its beauty.

It always seems to send out volumes of smoke, and is said frequently to emit showers of fine ashes, which disagreeably affect the eyes. Rumbling sounds and discharges, as of cannon, are said to proceed from it.

It is a remarkable fact, however, that very few natives live in sight of the mountain, and sufficiently near to give a good account of its phenomena. From the village at Roto Aira, the cone of Ngauruhoe is invisible, and the

natives at the south end of Lake Taupo are shut out from a view of this mountain by intervening hills; while those living further north are too remote for correct observation. Consequently many phenomena may occur which are not observed. On the north-west flank of Tongariro, outside the crater, there is a large puia or hot spring, said to be a specific for certain diseases.

At Tokanu there is a very large area penetrated by hot springs, both in the delta, and on the surrounding hills; more particularly at Terapa, where the late chief Te Heu Heu was smothered by the hill side slipping down and overwhelming his pa in a torrent of mud. When I had seen the line of hot springs extending up the side of the hill whence the mass had fallen, I saw no difficulty in accounting for the catastrophe.

The hot springs, of course, decompose and soften the rocks, and afterwards, by the soaking of rain, slips are brought down.

At Tokanu I found gravel of slates and of quartz, probably derived from Kaimanawa. The hot springs here are very interesting.

The obsequies of Te Herekiekie were proceeding, and many hundreds of Maoris were present. The tangi and other ceremonies were going on all day. The weather was rainy, and what with a damp muggy atmosphere, and the steam of the hot springs, the climate was most relaxing.

I was anxious to visit Kaimanawa, but the Maoris showed so much passive resistance in the way of delays, that I was obliged at last to give up the idea. They were in an excited state, and although perfectly civil, they watched every movement we made.

From Tokanu we procured guides to the Upper Whanganui. Proceeding by canoe to Pukawa, we passed the lovely falls of Waihi. At Pukawa I met the late Iwikau te Heu Heu, and called on the Rev. Mr. Grace, the missionary of the district. In his house I “assisted” at a dinner in the collegiate style, called “commons,” where all the scholars and every member of the household are seated at the same board. Pumice was largely employed in the construction of Mr. Grace's house, and he strongly recommended it as a building material.

From Pukawa we proceeded over an open pumice country, with very fine grass, on which we observed a flock of sheep belonging to the Maoris, as also a few cattle. After passing for some distance to the westward, we opened out splendid views of the volcanic group. The open plains are called the Rua Mata. At the entrance of the Whanganui bush we were obliged to find shelter from a furious thunderstorm, and to remain for the night. Here I was enabled to get good outline sketches of the volcanic group.

Entering the Whanganui bush on the following morning, we had a hard day's journey before we struck the Whanganui river, at a place called Terena. During the day we crossed a stream called the Waipare, and I found its bed composed of old slates with thin quartz veins. It was a matter of crossing two or three yards in which these slates were visible, but it was a great point to find that a base of slates was here to be found, and to form some idea of the thickness of tertiaries above them. As far as I could judge of a country covered by dense bush, I supposed the overlying rocks to be upper tertiary sandstones.

Terena is a pretty spot. We here struck the Whanganui on its right bank, and forded to the opposite shore. Proceeding down stream, we next forded the Whakapapa. In fording the Whanganui and its tributaries, which we had to do frequently, we had to hold on to poles held by all the party. The rivers were rapid and cold, and the stones being slippery, crossing was not unattended with danger.

Camping on the sand bank of the river to avoid the mosquitos, we started on the following morning, and reached the village of Tapuia Kumera, the residence, at that time, of Topini Te Mamako, the principal chief of the Upper

Whangauni. Topini, I found, was an old friend of mine, in the year 1840, in Wellington, so he treated me kindly, notwithstanding his having been a rebel in the Hutt in 1847, and afterwards having fought against us at Whanganui. He was busy getting in his wheat crop, and until that was done we could not get a canoe, so we were obliged to remain patiently. Topini informed me that slate rocks were found two days' journey up the Whakapapa, and he said that they contained a metal—possibly cubes of iron pyrites. This information is probably correct, supported by my discovery of slates in the bed of the Waipare.

At Tapuia Kumera there is a considerable extent of flat land, and since striking the Whanganui we had passed many cultivations. Groves of peach trees were common, and wheat, maize, tobacco, potatoes, etc., were cultivated.

Hereabouts series of strata are largely developed, which, although I discovered no coal seam, I have no hesitation in putting down as coal shales. They dip to the S. W. at an angle of about 20°, and contain plant remains. The terraces, and immediate banks of the river, are chiefly formed of pumice and volcanic ashes, sometimes forming tufa.

I may here call attention to the enormous quantity of pumice which must have been thrown out by the central volcanoes. Terraces of immense extent in the interior, are formed chiefly of pumice, and the rivers flowing from them, such as the Waikato, the Wairoa, the Whanganui, are constantly floating pumice to the sea, on the west, the south-west, and the eastern sides of the island. At the township of Whanganui tons of pumice are constantly floating past, and should the article be of any commercial value a vessel could load at her anchorage in mid-stream, by merely putting out some sort of net to catch the pumice as it floated past.

Two or three miles below Tapuia Kumera, the Ongarue, a tributary of large size, falls into the right bank of the Whanganui, at a place called Taumarunui. Ongarue receives above this junction, the waters of Te ringa motu, and from this point an open country is said to extend, with only one intervening bush, to Ngaruawahia.

At length Topini's harvest was garnered and secured, and we commenced the descent of the river. From Tapuia Kumera to Marai Kowhai, the next village of importance, and the chief residence of Topini, we occupied nine and a half hours transit, giving a distance of probably more than sixty miles.

In this distance we passed the Paparoa rapids, the worst on the river. Above these rapids the coal shales pass beneath tertiary limestones and blue clay, which latter continue far down the river.

Marai Kowhai is situated in the angle on the south side of the Ohura river, where that river joins the Whanganui, falling into the right bank. At this village commenced the warfare with the Ngatitu tribe who were conquered some years ago by Topini.

The Ohura river passes into the Whanganui after descending two waterfalls, in the neighbourhood of which coal seams crop out.

I am informed that this river traverses a fine open country in the direction of the Waipa and the district of Ngatimaniopoto.

On the following day we passed the mouth of the Tangarakau, on our descent, in two hours and three quarters from Marai Kowhai, a distance of about twenty miles. The sources of the Tangarakau must adjoin those of the Waitara.

We find, therefore, three lines of communication opening from the right bank of the Whanganui—

• 1.

  To the Waikato, by the line of Ongarue.

• 2.

  To the Waipa, by the line of the Ohura.

• 3.

  To the Waitara, by the line of Tangarakau.