sombre, silent, and unruffled. Away in the front rises an ever rolling, slow-changing, towering mass of steam, interspersed in the lower portions with sudden bursts of darker material, which prove to be stones, sand, mud, and water, flung up to the height of 400 or 500 feet above the lip of the crater. At times, the bright sun glancing over this wondrous column gives a vivid brightness to it; and again, so brilliantly reflected is the sunlight from the more distant portions of the mantled earth, as to bring vividly to the mind of the onlooker the semblance of a vast field of snow.

On entering this sombre plain, the ashen covering proves to be a fine, dry, powdered material, having throughout small fragments of scoria. Occasionally spherical or ovoid nodules are found, which easily crush between the fingers, and sometimes contain a nucleus in the shape of a rounded fragment of scoria.

Advancing through this material—which closely resembles in colour and appearance Portland cement—the deposit becomes deeper, so that walking was very fatiguing. In many parts each step was knee-deep, while, by leaving the ridges, the soft ash was found to be so deep as to be dangerous, and the effects of the wind stirring the surface made breathing laboured.

Travelling somewhat to the north of Okaro Lake for the distance of about a mile and a half, brought us to the most southern part of the fissure, which has extended from the Rotomakariri Lake in the direction of the Okaro Lake, partly through the Haumi Stream. On the line of the fissure in this direction are five distinct craters, the most northerly of which was decidedly the most active, while the southerly one was nearly dormant.

On reaching the edge of this one, which was ovoid in shape, the bottom was found to be covered with muddy water, evidently hot and probably deep. In the northern part of the crater an occasional uprush of water would take place, rising about 20 feet in height, and slowly falling back into the pool. This would cause a wave to gradually extend, which, reaching the sides, would wash in some of the steep sloping earth, followed occasionally by heavy slips extending to the surface. (Since our visit, Mr. Boscawen and Mr. Main have seen these craters, and have each witnessed the most southern crater, which we have stated as dormant, suddenly, and without warning, send masses of water, mud, and stones high into the air above the edge of the crater, after which, Mr. Main asserts, the activity would be followed by each of the others in succession to the northwards.) At the lip of the crater, and for a considerable distance back from the edge, cracks had formed following the contour of the lip, and from 2 to 6 or 7 feet apart. These cracks made travelling dangerous in the near vicinity of the craters, as the

occasional shocks of earthquake were liable to precipitate the overhanging portions to the bottom. The depth from the lip to the water was estimated at about 350 feet, and the length about 200 yards, with a width at the lips of 100 yards.

The second crater to the north was rather more active, sending up columns of steam, through which occasionally an uprush of stones and mud was discernible. Owing to a heavy slip of earth into this crater, a terrace had been formed about 50 feet below the lip, and with a little effort it was possible to obtain an excellent view from this place, not only of the crater in question, but of the steam-jets in the third crater. (The second and third craters here referred to subsequently became joined in one, called “Echo Lake Crater.”) These, to the number of five, rose in unbroken columns to the height of about 40 feet, sending up stones in large numbers, some of which reached above the surface. The roar of the escaping steam from this crater was very great. Passing round to the north, it was possible to cross the line by a narrow passage between the third and fourth craters; and from this point an excellent view could be obtained of the energy displayed by the escaping steam, which sent up showers of stones to within a few feet of us.

Looking north from the passage on which we stood, the fourth crater (since called the “Inferno”) displayed a very peculiar form. It had the appearance of an immense cutting through a long hill, and this was actually the method of its formation: the disruptive force having been exerted under the centre of a long spur, had removed the centre of the hill throughout its entire length, and deposited portions of the material on its sides. It was noticeable that in each of the craters already described, the forces had been exerted in the same manner, the crater having been formed in a hill, the material of which had been ejected to a considerable distance on each side. In the most southerly crater the formation was most distinctly shown, as the surface soil was marked by a ragged fringe of dead fern and ti-tree, which extended all round the side from about 10 to 25 feet below the lip of the crater, the ejected material taking the usual outward slope characteristic of volcanic cones. The natural contour of all the land covered in this vicinity, notwithstanding the tremendous forces which had been at work, was very little altered, and in one instance, on a steep slope which faced the westward, the fern and ti-tree was still visible. Still proceeding to the north, the fifth or Black Crater was reached, and this was certainly the most active in the line. After a toilsome ascent, a position was obtained from which the activity could be witnessed with comparative safety. This cone was the highest of all, and far above the level of its edges were thrown immense quantities of stones, mud, and water, the majority of which fell back

into the crater, though large masses were flung with a terrible clatter on to the sides, gradually building them to a greater height. Some of the stones launched out fell several hundred yards from the edge, burying themselves in the mud, and sending up volumes of steam. It was now possible to witness the manner in which the stones were buried, both in the mud and in the dry deposit, and to note how greatly reduced was the activity of the geyser action to what its earlier efforts had been.

While traversing the ground between the edge of the deposit and the craters, a large number of circular depressions had been observed, of various sizes, and having the appearance of fumaroles. Some of these were not less than half a mile from the edge of the nearest crater, while as the distance was reduced the number of these holes increased. Finding a place where water and mud had been ejected in sufficient quantity to form a moderate hardness on the surface of the dry deposit, a search was made at the bottom of some of the holes, resulting, after a little excavation, in each case in finding a large stone. Sometimes these had only just penetrated the hard wet crust, and at others had disappeared in the dry deposit which lay below. In one small valley, where an immense deposit of stones had taken place, a rhomboid had been thrown which measured about 4 ft. by 2 ft. 6 in.^* This had a raised mass of material round it, showing that it had been thrown, and had not rolled to its situation. During the whole of the time spent on the sides of this crater, a constant tremor of the earth was noticeable, and a heavier discharge than usual of mud and stones was invariably accompanied by a shock, which gave timely warning before the effects were seen above the edge of the crater.

Skirting this active geyser, and ascending the hill called Hape-o-toroa, the former Rotomahana Lake lies before us, sending up a great volume of steam.

This hill, Te Hape-o-toroa, is situated immediately to the south of the Rotomahana crater, and, being the highest land anywhere in the neighbourhood, commands a fine view of all the points of eruption excepting Tarawera and Ruawahia, the flanks of which are occasionally visible through the vast mass of vapour ascending into the upper regions of the air. Its close proximity to the southern edge of the crater—being distant from it only 250 yards—enables the beholder to look down on to the various points of eruption with great advantage, though it must be acknowledged that the constant shocks of earthquake induce a wondering expectation as to whether the steep hillside will not be precipitated into the depths below. Immediately to the

right hand, and at the eastern base of the hill, is the course o the Haumi Stream, which formerly wound its way from Okaro Lake to Rotomahans, joining that lake a little to the south-east of the Pink Terraces. But what a change has occurred here! Directly at the base of the hill is a great fissure, from which issues an enormous mass of steam, whilst every now and then, after a loud report like a cannon shot, it is accompanied by large quantities of stones and sand, shooting up into the air and falling generally back again from whence they came. Immediately in front, between us and the crater lip, is a deep dark hole, sending forth a high column of steam. The edges of the crater are covered with fragments of stone ejected from it.

One looks in vain for any sign of the Pink Terrace: all view in that direction is cut off by the column of steam. The edge of Rotomahana Lake is now far within the crater wall, which follows round from our immediate front in a westerly, then north-westerly, northerly, and north-easterly direction to the site of the White Terrace. The crater has clearly eaten its way back from the edge of the lake, a distance of at least a quarter of a mile from the site of the Pink Terrace; and all along the foot of the wall the steam rises from so many points, that it is impossible for the eye to penetrate within its precincts, except on rare occasions when the wind causes a separation of the masses of vapour; and then is disclosed to view for a short time a cavernous-looking aperture, in which can be discerned a picture once seen never to be forgotten. A dismal coffee-coloured light, penetrating the vast mass of vapour from above, enables us indistinctly to see a horrible mass of seething, boiling waters, stained of a black or dirty brown colour, encircled by walls and hillocks of dreadful-looking hot mud, from which the steam curls up in innumerable places. Mud volcanoes scatter their contents around on all sides, whilst every now and then a loud detonation precedes the discharge of a column of water, mud, and stones high into the air, and as they fall splash the black mud right and left. The whole interior surface of the crater, as far as the eye can penetrate, seems to have been boiled and steamed and hurled about to such an extent that the old landmarks are no longer recognizable. Whilst the greatest activity seems to follow the foot of the crater-wall round by the western side, the eastern has also its points of eruption, from which vast columns of steam arise to join the general mass above; but, as yet, no one has been able to obtain a clear view of this eastern side. The size of this crateral hollow is about 1 ½ miles in a North and South direction, with a width of about 1¼ miles.

From a point which was reached with great difficulty on the west side of the crater, a view is obtained looking north-east, past the site of the White Terraces, and embracing the whole of

Tarawera Mountain. The deep sand in this direction makes progression most slow and fatiguing, and not without danger from the slips of sand on the steep hill sides. We looked in vain for any sign of the White Terraces; and as the eye gradually got to recognize some of the more prominent features of the country near there, under their altered shapes and appearance, the conclusion was forced on us that these beautiful terraces—the most lovely and wonderful of their kind on the whole earth—had disappeared for ever from mortal view. The changes in the general appearance of the country near there are so great, that, even with a familiar knowledge of the locality, which had been impressed on the mind in a visit to the same spot on which we now stood only three short months before, we recognized with great difficulty and uncertainty the main features of the land. But, still, the evidence of the whole contour of the country goes to show that the site of the terraces is now occupied by a horseshoe-shaped recess or bay in the general line of the main crater, from which an enormous column of steam arises high into the air. Nearer to us than this recess could be seen a gentle declivity, forming a very shallow valley, in which once ran the Kaiwaka Stream, the former outlet to Lake Rotomahana. This once deep gully is now nearly filled to its top with ejected matter, to a depth of 80 feet, of stone, sand, and mud. All around this part of the crater edge the ground was cracked and fissured by earthquakes, and by the torrents of water ejected from the crater. Lying immediately to the west of it was a large deposit of mud, which extended some way up the range that divides Rotomahana from the Wairoa Stream, and on its surface were occasional pools of water, the remains of deluges cast out from the crater.

From this same spot a good view of the whole of the south end and top of Tarawera is obtained. The eye is immediately attracted by the altered appearance of the south-west end of the mountain. Here a great rift—an enormous chasm—extends from the plateau-like top to the base of the mountain, ending (apparently) quite close to the site of the former Rotomakariri Lake. Various estimates have been formed of the dimensions of this great rift, and we believe that we are quite within the mark in stating it to be over a mile long, 500 feet wide, and 500 feet deep. No one, up to the present time, has been able to see the actual bottom of it.^* Out of this chasm rise, at several points, columns of dense black or brown smoke, not continuously, but intermittently; but no sign of any ejection of solid material was visible at the time. The edges were quite sharp and ragged,

as if the solid rock had been ripped open by the enormous force of imprisoned steam; and in its upper part the ashes, rocks, and the ground generally for a long distance on either side, were coloured a yellowish-green, due no doubt to some of the products of volcanic action—such as ferric chloride. The slopes of the mountain around were covered deeply by ashes and stones, and near the base of it steam escaped from several cracks. As we sat on the surface of the sand observing the chasm through the glass, frequent shocks of earthquake caused cracks to open near the rift, and steam was seen to escape in little jets, ceasing, however, soon afterwards, as the cracks closed in or the loose materials fell into and stopped the vents. The southern end of the rift seems to be continued as a hollow right into the site of Rotomakariri, which is now occupied by a crater, from which rises a vast column of steam and occasionally smoke; indeed, this part seems to be one of the most active craters of the whole series. Mr. Morgan, who approached this side of the crater from Galatea on the night of the 14th, states that he saw a great glare as of fire, and a large mass of smoke issuing therefrom.

During the time we were in the district the weather was most beautifully clear, with a light south-west wind; and this allowed of a careful study through the glass of the heights of Wahanga, Ruawahia, and Tarawera, as seen from various points. That great changes have taken place in the two latter is obvious to any one who knew their former shapes and appearance. In 1874 we made the ascent of Ruawahia on three occasions, starting from near the outlet of Lake Tarawera, and are thus able to give some description of the range prior to the eruption. All those who have visited the Lake District are familiar with this range, which rises out of the lake on its eastern shore by gradual easy slopes, until near the summit, where a wall-like mass of trachytic or rhyolitic rocks marks the division between its plateau-like top and the gentler slopes below. From the northern end of Wahanga to the southern end of Tarawera is a distance of about three miles, whilst the plateau has a width of perhaps a mile, broken at one mile from the north end by a deep saddle, dividing Wahanga from Ruawahia. The surface of the plateau was covered by immense masses of broken trachytic rocks, which looked as if they had been shivered and fractured by the action of the frost into long angular blocks of various sizes. Running in all directions were depressions or crevices dividing the surface into hummocks, and making travelling very difficult; whilst occasionally a hillock formed of the piled up masses of loose rock rose above the general surface. No sign of any crater was seen, though the rocks are all undoubtedly due to volcanic action. Possibly in this range we see an illustration of one of those great masses of ejected lava described by

Judd, which, issuing from a vent or vents below in a viscid state, swell up in a somewhat rounded mass without forming a crater. Of this description is the well-known Grand Puy of Sarcouci, in France, and numbers of others in various parts of the world. The cracked and fissured surface of these mountains would then be accounted for by cooling from a state of considerable tension.

That a great change has taken place in the mountain top is obvious. The glass shows clearly that Ruawahia and Tarawera (both of these names being on the same plateau—the latter being the name of the southern end), have been apparently rent along their whole length, and some of the little peaks along this rent appear to be the result of solid materials ejected from below, and built up by stratified layers of scoria or stone having the outward dip common to volcanoes. Smoke was rising from several points for a distance of a mile and a half, but not in any great quantity, though occasionally it increased in volume, sending a dark black cloud high into the air. The surface of the ground on top was coloured a yellowish-green for many acres, denoting the presence probably of ferric chloride, whilst all the original fissures appeared to have been filled up to one general slope by the materials ejected. It is as yet premature to make any definite statement as to whether the mountain is higher than it formerly was—namely, 3,606 feet; but it certainly has that appearance, and the evidence of sketches and photographs tends in the same direction. We believe that when the mountain can be approached sufficiently near it will be found that a true crater has been formed on the north-east side of it.^*

In general appearance Wahanga seems to have altered, but not to so great a degree as Ruawahia. Smoke issues in smaller quantities from several places on its summit, but principally from the highest point. It also is covered with a mantle of ashes and stone ejected from one of the vents.^†

Dr. Hector, in his report^‡ on the eruption, has given some slight weight to the significance of these three names as bearing on the question of former activity, of which, however, no tradition exists among the Maoris; but we think no value can be attached to this argument when it is known that each name has another interpretation; and we cannot think that the obvious