
Kakahu.
Aronui: This fine cloak, now no longer seen, was made from carefully prepared fibre of the best variety of flax. The body of the garment was left the white colour of the bleached fibre, and was without thrums (hukahuka). It was a much-prized garment, and worn by leading chiefs alone. It had a wide taniko, or border, woven in tasteful patterns of black, white, and red fibre at the bottom, and a similar border, but narrower, at the two sides.
Paepaeroa: This large cloak ranked equal with the aronui. It was made of the same material, but had a wide taniko at both sides and end. It had no thrums. In weaving the paepaeroa, the taniko, or ornamental border, was the first part woven, but in the aronui it was the last.
Parawai: A large cloak of same material as above. It had no thrums.
Parakiri: Same material. Taniko on two sides only; none on lower end (remu). A large cloak, with no thrums.
Horihori: Same material. Taniko on sides only. No thrums.
Korowai: Same material. A fine large cloak. No taniko, but the white ground covered with thrums of fibre dyed black. This garment is still made.

Tahuka: Same material. It resembles a korowai, but has no thrums.
Pakipaki: Same material. It is like an aronui, with taniko on all sides. Ifc has an extra whakairo piece woven on to the taniko, “which piece is termed pakipaki; hence name of cloak. Papaki means to fasten one thing on another, to sew together. Among. Tuhoe the terms “papai” and “rāpā” are used to denote the sewing of a patch on a garment.
Hihima: Same material, but is entirely white. It has no taniko or whakairo, and all the thrums are white.
The taniko, or ornamental coloured borders, are, as a rule, woven on after the body of the garment is finished. About ten threads are woven at once, all of. which are miro except two, which are karure (double threads). These karure. are termed the “ngakau,” and are used to prevent the piece being woven from puckering or becoming irregular (hinarunaru). They are frequently pulled by the weaver, to keep the work straight and even. Names of famous weavers are long remembered. Should a koeke (elder) be watching my ruwahine weaving taniko, he will say, “Whakairo ana a Te Waha-mu” (Te Waha-mu is weaving), the latter being the name of her great grandmother, a famous weaver.
The above given were the swell, cloaks of Tuhoe Land—that Ik, of the flax garments; but -we yet have the feather cloaks to deal with, many of which were particularly striking. No cloaks have the taniko in centre or on the body of the garment, nor yet on upper end.
In making feather cloaks the ground (kaupapa) was woven of flax-fibre as in making a korowai, the feathers being inserted in regular rows, and bound by the aho as the work proceeded. The feathers were secured so as to overlap, and in a well-made cloak were almost as smooth, regular, and even as the plumage of a bird. Very beautiful is a well-made feather cloak, inasmuch as the various coloured feathers are often worked in regular and tasteful patterns. Again, some are white with a deep border of black feathers, others in squares of black and white. A fine one in my possession is worked in small triangles of black and. white alternately, the edges of each figure being marked by a row of red feathers of the kaka. The cloak is a very handsome one, and was presented to me as an oha by the Tama-kai-moana hapu of Maunga-pohatu.
These feather cloaks are known as kakahu kura or huruhhuru. When made wholly of the feathers of one species of bird they received such names as kahu kiwi, kakahu kakapo, kahu kereru, &c. Some fine feather cloaks are yet made in this district.
