Go to National Library of New Zealand Te Puna Mātauranga o Aotearoa
Volume 42, 1909
This text is also available in PDF
(2 MB) Opens in new window
– 431 –

Note 16.—M. Lottin's Journey to Manukau.

…At 9.30 a.m. I left in the whaleboat with MM. Guilbert, Gaimard, and Faraguet. We were about to ascend the Wai-Mogoia and verify the assertion of the Natives who affirmed that in that part New Zealand could be crossed in a few instants, and then we should arrive at the sea which bathes the west coast.

At 11 a.m. we entered the river. Above its mouth, confined by a tongue of sand, it forms a large basin of a mile and a half in width by two in length, where the water is salt; and beyond that, at low water, banks of mud appear, obstructing its course, and reducing it to a sinuous channel, of which the width varies from 50 to 200 toises, and is only navigable by small boats.

By noon we had crossed the first basin, and the water became drinkable. The sinuosities of the river caused us to pass near a village, or sleeping-place (moemoe), situated on the right-hand shore, and named Ourouroa [Ururoa]. An immense quantity of fish was drying in the air, extended

– 432 –

on frames, and exhaling an insupportable odour. The Natives gathered on the summit of the cliff, drawn thither by curiosity, and talked with loud voices to our guide as long as the speed of our boat allowed, whilst many children followed us along the banks.

As we advanced the land became lower; it was covered with tall vegetation, and cut up by small streams of almost stagnant water; many isolated mounts of no great elevation dominated the plain, recalling the tumuli of Greece.

At 12.15 the river suddenly terminated in a basin 200 toises wide, and beyond it there was nothing but a streamlet of water. We disembarked on the mud, leaving M. Faraguet to guard the boat. We were at this time seven miles from the corvette and about three miles and a half in a straight line from the mouth of the Mogoia, the general direction of which is S. ¼ S.W. to N. ¼ N.E.

At 12.55 we took a path cleared through high vegetation, which appeared to be frequently used by the Natives. The lay of the land prevented our seeing very far ahead, but at 1.50 p.m. we found ourselves on the borders of the sea of the other coast. We had therefore taken fifty-five minutes to cross New Zealand, which in that place had only about two miles of width. [It is clear from this account that M. Lottin did not go to the head of the Tamaki at Otahuhu, but crossed the Mokoia basin south of Panmure and came out on the Manukau north of Mount Richmond.] We now had before us what appeared like an immense lake. We tested the water, and found it salt; and, noticing a hill near us, we directed our steps towards it, with the intention of obtaining a more exact idea of the locality. A canoe was out fishing. The piercing vision of the Natives soon discovered us, and they immediately paddled ashore, and directly afterwards a numerous and armed crowd surrounded us. After talking some moments with our guide, the noisy escort accompanied us to see the chief of these parts.

We passed near some huts which exhaled the odour of rotten fish. There was no palisade to protect them; it was a kind of flying camp, ready to be quitted at the first announcement of an enemy. Many young girls came forth and joined our party, whilst a crowd of children gazed at us most earnestly, notwithstanding the blows from the butt of the guns which our escort seemed proud to bear. Presently we saw the chief; it was Inaki, one of these handsome New-Zealanders. He commanded under him who owned that part of the island, having the title of rangatira-paraparao, general-in-chief of the warriors. He was advantageously posted on the upper part of a slope at the extremity of a double rank of his warriors, and clothed in a beautiful mantle of dog-skin. He stood upright, supporting himself on a spear ornamented with plumes and tufts of hair. I made him a present of some cloth and a medal of the expedition, which had been given me by M. D'Urville for that purpose. The guide explained our intentions, and he gave us his permission to climb the hill, which is sacred, and up which, as a matter of fact, none of the Natives followed us. [This was probably Mount Richmond, formerly a pa, possibly at that time used as a burial-ground.]

Arrived at the summit, we were disappointed in not being able to see the entry from the ocean. In the place indicated by the Natives towards the west was a well-pronounced depression in the mountains which bounded our view, but an island between them and us prevented our seeing as far as the ocean. [This would be Puponga Peninsula.] The immense bay seemed entirely safe; but near the shores many mud-banks appeared,

– 433 –

showing that there would be a good bottom for anchors. We took a few bearings to give more exactitude to our sketches, and then descended, urged by the advanced hour, which prevented us taking a more interesting course by boat.

The Natives give the name of Manoukao [Manukau] to this bay. They stated a hundred times that it communicated with the open sea, and I have no doubt on the subject. It is probable that it is the False Bay of Cook.

We distributed several articles of hardware and some small pieces of French money, and then departed with Inaki, who expressed a desire to see the commander.

We traversed rapidly the narrow isthmus which separated us from the boat, and, catching part of the ebb tide, returned very slowly down the Mogoia River. A great number of Natives were collecting shellfish on the mud, and the rocks at the entrance were covered with fishermen. We reached the “Astrolabe” during the night.