Art. XXXIII.—Notes of the Botany of the Ruggedy Mountains and the Upper Fresh-water Valley, Stewart Island.

By D. L. Poppelwell.

North of the high Ruggedy Range there is strong physical evidence that, like the strait which apparently once ran from Mason's Bay to Paterson's Inlet, another strait ran from the Ruggedy River through the. Freshwater Valley to Paterson's Inlet, and probably another opening to the sea existed between the latter strait and the West Ruggedy beach, the southern boundary of which would be slightly north of Red Head. Evidence of this is furnished by the low country (not more than 150 ft.) lying between the various points mentioned, and by the fact that such low country consists almost entirely of ancient dunes. Stewart Island, apparently, therefore, once consisted of at least five islands—namely, (1) Mount Anglem Island; (2) that portion now constituting the high land at the Rugged Islands; (3) Ruggedy Range Island; (4) Mount Rakiahua; and (5) the high southern part of the island. (On this subject, see also Cockayne's Stewart Island report, p. 7.^*)

Speaking generally, the rocks of Stewart Island are granitic. The Rugged Islands and the Ruggedy Mountains are apparently composed of a harder substance than most of the other parts, as they stand up in great cliffs and jagged peaks of weather-worn rock, serrated on the top, and capped here and there with weird-looking minarers and towers.

Dr. Marshall, in one of his papers, says that at Ruggedy Point there is “a large instrusive mass of granophyre whose resistant nature causes it to form outstanding rugged pinnacles and clifis.”^†

What is true of Ruggedy Point is also true of the whole of the Ruggedy Range, which is not only identical in structure with the Ruggedy Islands, but is also worn in the same extraordinary manner. Here and there running through the granite are seams of quartz, and the rise and dip of the grain of the rocks shows great movement in parts, whatever may have been the determining cause.

General Ecology.

As this has been fully dealt with by Dr. Cockayne in his Stewart Island report, I only mention it here to say that his remarks on the subject apply equally to the portions visited by me as to the other parts of the island. The principal factor regulating the plant-life is that of wind, although, of course, soil-conditions have their due effect.

The Plant-life.

In order to make these notes more intelligible, I propose to treat the plant-life under the various heads of—(1) Rocks and cliffs, (2) dunes, (3) mountain meadow, (4) forest, (5) bogs and swamps.

(1.) Rocks and cliffs.

is no exception. The headland facing the Rugged Islands consists of weather-worn and jagged rocks about 300 ft. high, on one side subject to the full blast of the south-westerly gales and seas, and on the other to the more gentle northerly breezes and the direct sunlight. The flora answers to the conditions of exposure. The more exposed parts are bare, while those situations which afford any shelter at all are clothed with a mantle of weather-beaten plants. Next the sea there is an almost pure association of Olearia angustifolia with Anisotome intermedia^* occupying the rockcrevices, and Veronica elliptica where the peat is deeper. In proportion to the shelter, there will also be found Olearia Colensoi, Senecio rotundifolius, and Phormium Cookianum. What marks the physiognomy most, however, is the Olearia angustifolia, which is pressed close to the rocks, and roots in many places right into the rock itself. Its rounded tops and close foliage attest its struggle against the elements. On the north side of the Ruggedy Islands it is so abundant as to render the whole cliff-side conspicuously white at a distance, with its numerous beautiful daisy flowers, looking almost too delicate for so exposed a ituation. Growing also in damper situations on the rocks there is an abundance of Crassula moschata, with here and there Sonchus littoralis, Myosotis albida, Brachycome Thomsoni, Poa Astoni, Gnaphalium luteo-album, Apium prostratum, Gentiana saxosa, Samolus repens, Luzula campestris, Asplenium lucidum, Senecio lautus, Dracophyllum longifolium, Scirpus aucklandicus, and Hierochloe redolens. A similar association of plants, with the addition of Nothopanax Colensoi, Olearia nitida, and Veronica elliptica, was noted on the north side of Ruggedy River. This association fairly represents that of the coastal rocks, but in a more sheltered nook, farther from the sea, the rock association included the following additional plants, namely: Celmisia rigida, Gentiana saxosa, Apium prostratum, Olearia nitida, Pratia angulata, Epilobium nerterioides, Blechnum capense, Pteridium esculentum, with Arundo conspicua, Astelia nervosa, Carex ternaria, and Blechnum fluviatile (near creek), and, in shade of Olearia scrub, Stilbocarpa Lyallii.

(b.) Higher Rocks.

On the top of the Ruggedy headland, where there was an exposed saddle, a specially marked wind-swept association was noted, consisting of Leptospermum scoparium as a very low mat hardly 2 in. high and covered with flowers; Senecio bellidioides, with thick bristly leaves, pressed to the ground in close rosettes; Olearia Colensoi, only a few inches high; Celmisia rigida (very plentiful); stunted Phormium Cookianum; Dracophyllum prostratum; and Anisotome intermedia (?). Higher still, on the south side, the same association, with the exception of the Leptospermum and Senecio bellidioides, was dominant, with the following added plants: Gentiana saxosa, Microtis unifolia, Thelymitra uniflora, Poa Astoni, Luzula campestris, Pratia angulata, Veronica buxifolia, and Styphelia acerosa. The cliffs at Red Head differ but little from the above. Where not too much exposed, they are covered with Anisotome intermedia (?), Apium prostratum, with Olearia angustifolia in patches, interspersed with specimens of Olearia Colensoi and Senecio rotundifolius—these latter according to situation, the Olearia angustifolia being nearest the sea. At an elevation of about 1,200 ft. on the west side of Red Head Peak of the Ruggedy Mountains,

(2.) Dunes.

sessiliflorum of small size are dotted about, with numerous specimens of Craspedia uniflora var. robusta. Gradually the dunes become more stable as they recede from the coast, and ultimately become covered with forest. It is difficult to draw the line between ancient and modern dunes, the transition from one to the other being so gradual.

(b.) Ancient Dunes.

In dealing with the ancient dunes it will be necessary to treat the plant covering under two heads—namely, dune heath and dune forest.

* Dune Heath.

There is a considerable dune heath at Ruggedy lying between the frontage dunes and the dune forest. The dunes vary much in their watercontent, and their plant covering differs accordingly. The common association of the drier parts consists of Leptospermum scoparium (much of it dwarfed, but on the edge of the forest nearly 30 ft. tall, with trunks in some cases 15 in. in diameter), Pteridium esculentum, Blechnum capense, B. discolor, Styphelia acerosa, stunted Weinmannia racemosa, Coprosma foetidissima, Veronica salicifolia, stunted Griselinia littoralis, Gaultheria erecta, Olearia Colensoi, Aristotelia racemosa, Coprosma Colensoi, Phormium Cookianum, and Astelia nervosa. In the more open parts Coprosma acerosa, Lagenophora pumila, Libertia ixioides (in full bloom), Polypodium diversifolium, Coriaria ruscifolia, Wahlenbergia saxicola, Styphelia Fraseri, Linum monogynum, Calystegia Soldanella, Geranium sessiliorum, Gaultheria perplexa, Coriaria angustissima (?), with stunted Carpodetus serratus and a juvenile plant or two of Rubus schmidelioides. I also noted two plants of Celmisia rigida. In the damper parts the association changed somewhat, and included Arundo conspicua, Juncus planifolius, Hydrocotyle asiatica, Scirpus nodosus, and, as actual bog was approached, Utricularia monanthos, and in places Leptocarpus simplex. In the pools Potamogeton Cheesemani was also seen.

The upper portion of the Fresh-water Valley consists almost entirely of ancient dunes alternating with bogs and swamps. On the drier hills there is an abundance of Leptospermum scoparium, with Styphelia Fraseri, Pentachondra pumila, Thelymitra uniflora, Celmisia longifolia, Cassinia Vauvilliersii, Olearia nitida, Nothopanax Colensoi, Acaena novae-zealandiae, Phormium Cookianum, Lycopodium ramulosum, Veronica salicifolia, Rubus australis, Lagenophora petiolata, Pteridium esculentum, Gaultheria erecta, Coprosma acerosa. Here and there patches of Danthonia Raoulii meadow are found, the tussocks fairly close together, but in the spaces between them Helichrysum filicaule, Thelymitra uniflora, Microtis porrifolia, Celmisia longifolia (very plentiful), and Herpolirion novae-zealandiae. In an open space among the Leptospermum scoparium, at an elevation of about 100 ft. above sea-level, I found a solitary specimen of Celmisia Sinclairii (?),^* and also several plants of Caladenia Lyallii and C. bifolia. Specimens of Prasophyllum Colensoi were also abundant. Pseudopanax crassifolium, with occasional plants of Nothopanax Colensoi, is also frequently seen in the mixed dry heath. Near our camp, among very tall Leptospermum scoparium, there was a mixed patch of plants, consisting of Rubus australis, Pittosporum Colensoi, Coprosma foetidissima, Blechnum capense, Polystichum vestitum, Astelia nervosa, Lycopodium volubile, Styphelia

(3.) Mountain Meadow.

The only elevated open meadow examined by me was on the hills just adjoining the headland near Rugged Island. There is a considerable area of open land, ascending to a height of about 900 ft. On the east side of the hills there is an almost continuous forest, which will be dealt with under its proper heading. The open side lies exposed to the west, and its plant association is accordingly much affected by wind.

Commencing above the wind-swept Ruggedy headland, at a height of about 200ft., in a boggy place, I noted Gnaphalium trinerve, Pratia angulata, Gnaphalium luteo-album, Ranunculus rivularis, Carex ternaria, Phormium Cookianum, Anisotome intermedia (?), Blechnum capense, Scirpus nodosus, Selliera radicans, Scirpus aucklandicus, and Epilodicum nerterioides. At a height of 350 ft. great patches of Libertia ixioides in full bloom appeared, the brownish leaves of the plants giving a marked physiognomy to the hillside. Dotted all over were the rosettes of Celmisia rigida, decorated with their handsome flowers. In exposed situations the leaves of this Celmisia had a brownish-green colour, and were only 2 in. or 3 in. long. Where the plant was growing in the shelter the leaves were 9 in. or 10 in. long, and of a much brighter green on the upper side. Here and there were specimens of Coprosma propinqua, with Styphelia acerosa and Dracophyllum longifolium shorn almost to the cushion form. Some rounded cushions of Oreobolus pectinattis also dotted the hillside, with occasional stunted plants of Veronica buxifolia. In parts the hillside appeared to have been burnt, so that the present association is not necessarily original, although, judging from the dry sticks lying about, apparently the original large plants were much the same as at present. The carpet plants were Gentiana saxosa, Seneio bellidioides, Gaultheria perplexa, and Anisotome

intermedia, the latter with very short leaves. On the hilltop, at 800 ft., Celmisia rigida was still the most abundant plant, but Olearia nitida, Blechnum capense, Styphelia acerosa, Veronica buxifolia, and Danthonia Raoulii played an important part.

Here and there Apium prostratum was seen, along with Hierochloe redolens, Suttonia rigida, Acaena Sanguisorbae, Pratia angulata, Gnaphalium trinerve, Epilobium nerterioides, Geranium microphyllum, and Thelymitra longifolia. Proceeding along the ridge, we entered a bit of a forest on a low saddle, and emerged again at a height of about 700 ft. in a great windfunnel, where the alpine scrub showed very marked modification, from the changed ecological conditions. The principal plants were Leptospermum scoparium (shorn to a low close mat), Metrosideros lucida (a much-branched low-growing bush), Olearia Colensoi, Styphelia acerosa, Veronica buxifolia, Dracophyllum longifolium, Nothopanax Colensoi, Coprosma foetidissima, Olearia nitida, Coprosma lucida, Griselinia littoralis, and Phormium Cookianum. All these plants were cut off closely by the wind to a height of only a foot or two, until, as the hilltop was reached, they grew to about 4 ft, as they merged into the forest, which, climbing up the sheltered side, met the rounded top of the heath plants. On the bare patches among the aforesaid plants were numerous small specimens of Celmisia rigida and Anisotome intermedia (?). The only other high open part inspected by me was that of the higher portion of Red Head Peak, which has already been dealt with under the heading of “Rocks and Cliffs.”

(4.) Forest.

It is hard to draw the line between the coastal scrub on the west side and the forest. The high winds seem to considerably affect the association. The only parts which seem to properly come under the head of “forest” are those in sheltered situations—namely, on the eastern slopes—although, as the coast is receded from and the frontage belt of Olearia angustifolia, O. Colensoi, and Senecio rotundifolia begins to afford its shelter, the usual “Rimu-Kamahi” association obtains a hold. On the eastern slope of the bare hill to the south of Ruggedy Point, for instance, the following association was noted: Weinmannia racemosa, Dracophyllum longifolium, Coprosma foetidissima, C. lucida, Nothopanax Edgerleyi, N. Colensoi, Coprosma propinqua, Griselinia littoralis, Dacrydium cupressinum, Metrosideros lucida, with an undergrowth of Blechnum discolor, B. capense, Astelia nervosa, and Carex ternaria. On the tree-trunks were fringes of Luzuriaga marginata, Polypodium diversifolium, Asplenium flaccidium, and the filmy ferns. Here and there also were groups of the tree-fern Dicksonia squarrosa. The general aspect of the forest was brownish-green, from the abundance of Dacrydium cupressinum trees standing out above their fellows, with darker patches where the rounded heads of the Metrosideros lucida appeared, and intermediate splashes of a lighter colour where the Weinmannia racemosa predominated. In the gullies were observed Rhipogonum scandens, Rapanea Urvillei, Hemitelia Smithii, the floor-covering being Blechnum discolor and B. capense, while the damp logs were covered with Hymenophyllum dilatatum, H. sanguinolentum, Polypodium diversifolium, and P. australe. Near the edge of the forest Muehlenbeckia complexa, Pseudopanax crassifolium, Tmesipteris tannensis, and Lycopodium volubile were noted, with occasional specimens of Veronica elliptica. Throughout this forest, but not plentiful, specimens of Olearia Colensoi and Senecio rotundifolius also grew, seemingly somewhat out of their station.

“Senecio-Olearia” belt, but the forest is somewhat more mixed than that noted farther south. This forest contained the following species, which list is not, of course, exhaustive: Veronica elliptica, Anisotome intermedia (?), Olearia angustifolia, O. Colensoi, O. nitida (the latter in many cases with a trunk 2 ft. in diameter, although generally prostrate at the base), Coprosma areolata, Senecio rotundifolius, Rubus australis, Aristotelia racemosa, Acaena Sanguisorbae, Juncus planifolius, Coprosma propinqua, Rubus schmidelioides, Rapanea, Urvilli, Coprosma, foetidissima, Blechnum discolor, Polypodium diversifolium. As the scrub became denser I noted Gunnera prorepens, Nertera depressa, Coprosma lucida, Ranunculus hirtus, Blechnum capense, Fuchsia excorticata, Carex ternaria, C. dissita, Griselinia littoralis, Leptospermum scoparium, Gnaphalium luteo-album, Metrosideros lucida, Dracophyllum longifolium, Carpodetus serratus, Weinmannia racemosa, Dacrydium cupressinum, Muehlenbeckia complexa, Rhipogonum scandens, Pittosporum Colensoi, Asplenium flaccidum, Astelia nervosa, Pratia angulata, Schefflera digitata, Polypodium grammitidis, Pseudopanax crassifolium, Earina mucronata, Polystichum vestitum, Erechtites prenanthoides, and Asplenium lucidium.

(5.) Bogs and Swamps.

Under this heading I propose to deal with the plants growing in the wet and boggy land in Fresh-water Valley. Strictly speaking, it is hard to draw the line in many cases between heath and bog, as these two are so closely united. The Fresh-water Valley consists practically of wet and boggy land all through, although here and there are scrub islands, and in many cases extensive dry sandy ridges. On the other hand, there are numerous creeks and several large lagoons, some of them about a quarter of a mile in length by half that width. The principal bogs are covered with stretches of Hypoloena lateriflora and Gleichenia alpina, with here and there in the wetter places great cushions of Sphagnum. There also are colonies of Utricularia monanthos, and carpets of the pretty blue flowers of Herpolirion novae-zealandiae. Here and there are smaller cushions of Oreostylidium subulatum, and in the drier places vast quantities of Celmisia longifolia. In parts there are many stunted specimens of Cassinia Vauvilliersii and Phormium Cookianum and the ixia-like orchid Thelymitra uniflorum (in full bloom). Much of the ground is covered by Pentachondra pumila and Styphelia empetrifolia; and occasional plants of Styphelia acerosa, Blechnum capense var. minor, and Lycopodium ramulosum are common, as also is Dracophyllum longifolium. In the places where there is an abundance of standing water is found an almost pure association of Leptocarpus simplex, while on the “heath islands” will be found Olearia nitida, Nothopanax Colensoi, Astelia nervosa, Acaena novae-zealandiae, Lycopodium fastigiatum, Phormium Cookianum, Veronica salicifolia, Rubus australis, Lagenophora petiolata, and Pteridium esculentum. In many parts the ground is red with broad patches of Drosera binata and the small round mats of D. spathulata. Less common, but still tolerably plentiful, will be found Gaultheria perplexa, G. erecta, Coprosma acerosa, and Caladenia Lyallii. Here and there are stretches of drier ground covered with Danthonia Raoulii, the tussocks fairly tall, and the ground between them filled up with Pratia angulata, Thelymitra longifolia, and Microtis unifolia, with occasional specimens of Prasophyllum Colensoi. For long stretches near some of the lagoons there will be nothing but the red stems of Leptocarpus simplex, or in some places the green stems of Scirpus nodosus. In boggy creeks I noted