
Food.
The supplies having been secured by the methods described, a few remarks about them as foods are necessary.
To any one who enjoys the shell-fish of the salt water the kakahi is very tasteless and insipid. This opinion seems to be shared by the present

generation of the Arawa people, for dredging is gradually being abandoned. In olden days, however, the kakahi was very important. It was used in the feeding of motherless infants where a wet-nurse could not be secured. The kakahi was cooked and the child fed with the soft paru, or visceral mass, which, further softened with the water retained in the shell, could be sucked like milk. Three or four kakahi formed a meal. Hence the Maori said, Ko te kakahi te whaea o te tamaiti (The kakahi is the mother of the child). Ka whakangotea ki te wai o te kakahi (It was suckled on the juice of the takahi).
The kakahi was often greatly desired by patients. When the eyes took on a deathly, unnatural white appearance it was alluded to as kua whakawai kakahi nga kanohi (the eyes have taken on a kakahi white appearance). Then the appropriate treatment was to feed the patient with wai-kakahi—the juice of the kakahi after it had been cooked in a hot spring. Smith* mentions these uses of the kakahi. If the patient could take it the prognosis was considered good. If the patient had been very ill and asked for kakahi it was looked upon as a good sign.
Kakahi were sometimes eaten raw. The opening of a raw kakahi has a special word, tioka. If a person desired raw kakahi for a meal he said, Tiokatia mai he kakahi (Open me some raw kakahi). If the kakahi were cooked, the word for opening was kowha. They might also be eaten underdone—that is, they were dipped into a hot spring for a few seconds. This just warmed the kakahi and caused the shell to open very slightly. This process was called whakakopupu. Hence the phrase Whakakopuputiamai he kakahi means, literally, “Underdo me some kakahi.”
There was, of course, the ordinary cooking, though the Maori never cooked their shell-fish until the shell was wide open and the contents shrivelled to the consistency of leather, as the European seems fond of doing.
The proper kinaki, or relish, to go with kakahi was the pohue, a kind of convolvulus. The kakahi after being eaten as food was always alluded to in the plural as nga kakahi.
The shell of the kakahi was used for cutting the hair of adults, and also the umbilical cord of a newborn child.
In addition to the proverb already mentioned, there is another drawn from the fact that the kakahi in moving about on the bottom of the lake forms a trail of curves and spirals not unlike tattooing or carving: Nga kakahi whakairo o Rotorua. This was applied to toa, or warriors, who dashed in and out of the war-party.
The kokopu and toitoi were eaten locally, and not preserved. The inanga and koura, on the other hand, were preserved, and, besides providing for local needs, were sent as presents and exchanges to outside tribes.
The inanga were dried by being spread out on the papa or rocky slabs rendered hot by the natural hot steam below. When dried they were called whakahunga, and were packed in baskets lined and covered with fern-leaves, and were then ready for storing or export.
The koura makes delicious eating, the flavour resembling that of large prawns. It has survived the introduction of trout better than its finny comrades, and to this day the tau koura still obtains good catches, though not comparable to those of times gone by. Curried koura is often included in the menu of the dining-room run in connection with the dances in the carved meeting-house of Tama-te-kapua at Ohinemutu; and during the
[Footnote] * T. H. Smith, Trans. N.Z. Inst, vol. 26, p. 429, 1894.

visit of the Prince of Wales to Rotorua koura, though late in the season (April), were supplied in the Maori canteen, to the delight of the Maori visitors. They are cooked in baskets in the steam holes, and it is interesting to see how neatly and quickly the local people get rid of the shell and expose the flesh. The abdomen, or tail, consists of seven segments, the hindmost, or seventh, being biologically called the “telson.” In the large sea-crayfish it is usual to separate this abdominal part and remove the exoskeleton, or tergum, from each segment in turn. With the small fresh-water koura, however, the Maori removes the tergum in one piece, without detaching the fleshy mass from the anterior cephalothorax. Grasping the cephalothorax with the left hand, with the right hand he first squeezes the sides of the abdominal segments. This loosens matters up, and, grasping the telson, or end segment, above and below, he squeezes it firmly. This pushes the flesh forward out of the end segment, and by now pulling backwards and slightly upwards the whole exoskeleton comes away. The carapace, or covering of the anterior part, is then flicked forward and upward and detached. The tail part and the viscera of the anterior part are taken in a mouthful; whilst the head, legs, and under part of the cephalothorax are rejected; Care must, however, be taken to avoid the bile-ducts, which show up black just behind the head. They are usually pinched off beforehand. One has only to struggle with a koura himself to appreciate the quickness, neatness, and ease of the above method in the hands of the cognoscenti.
For preserving purposes the fleshy tail parts, after being cooked, were threaded on a string of flax-fibre and dried. They were thus stored in long strings, shell-fish being preserved in a similar manner; and in condition they would keep for a year. The strings were packed in baskets. Eight baskets were called a rohe, which was equivalent to a sack.
Feasts.—At a large hui at Awahou in 1899 there were six hundred people present from the Bay of Plenty and East Coast. The gathering lasted a week, and koura was the chief food. A great present of koura was sent to Kawana Paipai at Wanganui in 1859, but my informants had forgotten the quantities. At the opening of Tama-te-kapua at Ohinemutu, in 1873, it is said that at the feast there were five hundred rohe of dried koura and inanga. As this would mean four thousand baskets, some idea can be formed of how the lake must have teemed with food and what an invaluable asset it must have been to the tribes fortunate enough to possess it.
