(a.) Fillets.

Narrow plaited bands of white wefts are used as ornamental fillets for the head. They are called tipare or kopare. Feathers used to decorate the hair are known as pare, as are also any bands or wreaths for the hair. The tipare forms a convenient support for the feather pare. Williams (1) also gives kotaha as “Part of a chief's head-dress, consisting of a fillet in which feathers are stuck.” These fillets are usually plaited with four wefts, and when completed form a narrow band with serrated edges. The ends of the band are joined together to form a circlet which fits over the head above the brows. The technique is admirably shown in figs. 1–9, prepared by Mr. J. McDonald. Two sets of two wefts connected by a portion of undivided butt are interlaced to form a check as shown in fig. 1. In the figures the parts with parallel lines denote one surface of the weft, and the dotted part denotes the opposite surface. It will be seen that the edges are sharply defined by folding the under-weft diagonally over the outer margin of the weft above it. In this bending or folding over, the other surface of the folding weft is exposed. If each stage is followed as described under the figures, the technique will be found to be quite simple.

This form of plaiting is very similar to a plait used in the making of European straw hats. Ratzel (2) figures a similar plait from Hawaii, and says it was probably introduced. The Maori say it is an old plait, and the Ngati-Porou Tribe of the East Coast call the plait itself mekameka. As Europeans in New Zealand were not in the habit of plaiting straw, it is difficult to see in what way they could have imparted such knowledge to the Maori. The Maori may have dissected an old straw hat and thus obtained the technique of the plait but it seems to be definitely pre-European. (See Plate 33.)

Fillets of coloured flax-fibre woven after the manner of the taniko, or ornamented borders of cloaks, are very popular, but do not belong to this article.