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Volume 55, 1924
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Plate 71.

The story of the discovery, rediscovery, and settlement of Port Nicholson has been fully told by Mr. Elsdon Best and others. It is proposed here to record what was done in the way of introducing shipping facilities and creating the port as at present existing.

The first official mention of Port Nicholson was in a parliamentary paper laid before the House of Commons on the 31st August, 1835, in connection with the recovery of British subjects who had been detained by the Maoris when the barque “Harriet” was wrecked near Cape Egmont on the 29th April, 1834. Captain Guard, of that vessel, with part of his crew and some Maori friends, was allowed to leave the locality to obtain assistance on the 20th June, arriving at Port Nicholson by way of Blind Bay and Queen Charlotte Sound on the 30th June. Here he found the schooner “Joseph Weller,” on which he secured a passage to Sydney, where he laid his case before the Governor, Sir Richard Bourke. This resulted in H.M.S. “Alligator” being sent to New Zealand to recover the prisoners. Wellington, or Port Nicholson, only bears on the subject by providing a means for Guard reaching Sydney, but the episode gave Port Nicholson its first advertisement in the British Parliament.

Captain Hobson, later Governor of the colony, visited Cook Strait in H.M.S. “Rattlesnake” during 1837, but he does not even mention the port.

Port Nicholson thus took an insignificant part in the story of New Zealand until 1840; but with the advent of the New Zealand Company the Cook Strait districts and the port showed promise of future

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importance. In the Company's prospectus it is stated (1, p. 31) “that Cook Strait, between the two Islands, forms part of the direct track of vessels homeward-bound from the Australian colonies; that many vessels go through Cook Strait, while others at present pass New Zealand at either its southern or northern extremity, but that all would prefer the midway of Cook Strait if that channel were properly surveyed, lighted, and furnished with pilots; and that, consequently, settlements in Cook Strait, at Port Hardy, in D'Urville Island, Queen Charlotte's Sound, Cloudy Bay, and Port Nicholson would obtain stock cattle and other supplies from New South Wales with peculiar facility and cheapness, since homeward-bound vessels would naturally load in part, or sometimes entirely, with stock cattle for New Zealand (and especially on deck in favourable weather, which prevails during nine months of the year), discharging that cargo at New Zealand and reloading there with water and provisions for the homeward voyage, as well as with a New Zealand cargo for Europe, of fish-oil, flax, timber, and other productions of the country.” It was also mentioned in the prospectus that New South Wales received part of its supply of flour from the New England States in North America, which New Zealand would be able to supply, taking in exchange British manufactured goods; these the Austalian merchants had obtained by the sale of their wool in London and Liverpool.

At this time Colonel Wakefield, with a small party, was on his way to Cook Strait on the “Tory,” with specific instructions (1, p. 23) that he was to select the location of the first colony, to purchase lands, to acquire general information as to the country, and to make preparations for the formation of settlements. The price paid for the land in those days is often held up to ridicule when compared with the present-day value of the same land; but that is the oft-repeated story of the present looking back on the past and envying its bargains. It is repeated even in the story of the early reclamations. What would be thought of land in Willis Street, opposite the Evening Post office, being sold at 6 per foot frontage? The speculator of those days did not see any bargain about it; the land—there was only 360 ft. of it—could not be sold; half of it had to be given away; and Sir George Grey did a good turn to the Wellington College when he granted 182 ft. as an endowment to that institution.

The rivalry between Auckland and Wellington, now usually of a fairly friendly nature, is a mystery to many people. It is generally ascribed to the removal of the seat of Government in 1863, but it was in existence long before that. It originated as far back as 1840, when Governor Hobson, without visiting Wellington, selected Auckland as the capital. All sorts and conditions of men, both here and in the Old Country, joined in the discussion of pros and cons. Perhaps one of the most amusing of these was a letter to Lord Stanley from a firm of English lawyers who had been commissioned by several settlers of Auckland to protest against the proposed removal to Wellington (2, p. 68). They state that it would be easy to connect Manukau Bay with the Waikato River, and at a trifling expense. “Taranaki is a fine agricultural district, but it is distant 100 miles from Port Nicholson, and is easier approached from Auckland by means of the River Waikato and Lake Taupo and the River Wanganui than from Wellington. As regards internal communication, there is none at Port Nicholson, which is blocked in on all sides by enormous and

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precipitous mountains.” There is no doubt that at the time Hobson made his choice North Auckland was the most important part of New Zealand, and the Waitemata district, with its double harbour, was considered a strategical position.

When Captain Hobson and the Colonial Secretary did visit Port Nicholson, although they were badly received, they gauged the position very fairly. Willoughby Shortland, Colonial Secretary, who came to Wellington to suppress a rumoured rebellion, in a report to Governor Hobson (10th October, 1840) says (3, p. 119): “A beautiful and extensive harbour, in which there are no dangers of any consequence; the anchorage in Lambton Harbour is extremely good; but the one off the beach of Petone is by no means safe. A lighthouse and good pilots would in a great measure obviate any difficulties in entering the harbour.” During the next year Governor Hobson paid his long-expected visit to Port Nicholson. He had written to the Secretary of State for the Colonies (10th November, 1840) (3, p. 127): “The port is certainly most spacious, and is free from danger within its heads, but its very great extent, and the tremendous violence of the prevailing winds, generate so heavy a sea within itself as to suspend for many days together all operations connected with the shipping. The reports of Mr. Shortland and of other authorities rank Port Nicholson, as a commercial port, second both to the Bay of Islands and the Waitemata (Auckland).” After his visit to the port he reported (13th December, 1841) to the Secretary of State (4, p. 183): “As to the capabilities of the port, I am of opinion that few places can surpass it, but the entrance is rather difficult to distinguish, and appears very dangerous to a stranger. A more general knowledge of the coast, however, and a lighthouse on one of the heads, will obviate these difficulties. If any objection to the harbour exists, it is that the estuary is too extended, and the violent winds which prevail occasion a most turbulent sea at the anchorage. Owing to the approach to the shores being shallow, rather long wharves would be necessary.” Felton Matthews, Surveyor-General, who came with Hobson, forecasted (4, p. 185) that the best situation for the Customhouse would be between Pipitea and Te Aro, and in front of Lambton Quay, which must be recovered from the water. There it was placed in 1862, twenty-two years after.

The violent winds were regarded from quite a different viewpoint by Bishop Selwyn, who in 1848 wrote (5, p. 46): “No one can speak of the healthfulness of New Zealand till he has been ventilated by the restless breezes of Port Nicholson, where malaria is no more to be feared than on the top of Chimborazo, and where active habits of industry and enterprise are evidently favoured by the elastic tone and perpetual motion of the atmosphere. If I am not mistaken, no fog can ever linger long over Wellington to deaden the intellectual faculties of its inhabitants. They will not always reason right or be unanimous in opinion; but there will always be activity of thought and promptness of action in this battlefield of the north-west and south-east winds.”

Lieutenant Wood, late of the Indian Navy, who wrote a rather disgruntled book on early Wellington, has nothing to say against the harbour, but records (6) that “when a beacon is erected on the outermost rock of Barrett's Reef and a lighthouse built upon the Heads nothing more could be desired.” He also suggested a “circular wharf abreast the town where vessels of large tonnage might discharge.” As will be seen by the harbour-plan, a practically circular wharf, with projections, has been built.

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In 1842 the Lords Commissioners of Her Majesty's Treasury approved of Wellington, Auckland, and Russell being constituted free ports in conformity with the provision of Act 3 and 4 William IV. Perhaps this may account for the following Proclamation, dated 1st October, 1844 (7): “On and after this day neither light dues, port charges, nor harbour dues of any kind will be demanded from any vessel whatever in or near any part of New Zealand. Taking a pilot will be optional with the master or commander of any vessel; if used, the charge will be 3s. per foot, into or out of any harbour. There are no duties of Customs or public charges of any kind payable by vessels in New Zealand—Andrew Sinclair, Colonial Secretary.”